What Is French Terry Fabric?
Updated: 4 days ago
A guide to 3-end unbrushed loopback and how it differs from single jersey and brushed fleece.
French terry is a knitted fabric with a relatively smooth face and a distinct terry-loop structure on the reverse. Conventional single jersey also has a recognizable face and reverse, but it does not use the same dedicated loopback construction found in French terry. The distinction is structural, not simply a difference in how the two surfaces look.
Those loops are part of the same knitted fabric, not a separate layer. In an unbrushed French terry, the loopback reverse remains intact rather than being mechanically raised into a soft, fleece-like pile.
For REALLY COOL®, the 420 GSM Signature Loopback platform is developed around organic cotton 3-end unbrushed French terry. Its clean jersey-knit face and unbrushed loopback reverse form the material foundation for a coordinated system of sweatshirts, hoodies, and sweats.
Understanding this construction helps explain why French terry is not simply another name for heavyweight jersey, and why it needs to be developed as its own garment material.
What Is French Terry Fabric?
French terry is a knitted fabric. It is not woven, and it is not the same as brushed fleece.
Its defining characteristic is the presence of loops on the reverse side of the cloth. The face typically presents a clean, jersey-knit surface. The reverse shows a looped structure. Both surfaces belong to one continuous knitted fabric.
This face-and-reverse relationship is what makes French terry useful for sweatshirts, hoodies, and sweats: the exterior can remain relatively clean and stable, while the interior provides a different tactile character.
Understanding the Face and Reverse of French Terry
French terry is one fabric with two clearly different sides.
Face: A clean jersey-knit surface. This is the side that usually faces outward in finished garments.
Reverse: A looped structure. In an unbrushed construction, these loops remain intact and visible rather than being raised into a fleece pile.
The two surfaces are not bonded layers and are not separate fabrics stitched or laminated together. They are the two sides of the same knitted construction. When the fabric is turned, the transition from face to reverse is continuous.
This is the most important visual and technical distinction to understand: one knitted fabric, two distinct surfaces.
What Does 3-End French Terry Mean?
“3-end” describes a French terry construction approach in which the fabric is developed using three yarn systems or feeders within the knitting process.
The exact yarn configuration, machine setup, and technical specification should always be confirmed against the approved fabric specification.
For REALLY COOL®, 3-end refers to the approved construction basis of its 420 GSM Signature Loopback platform, not a generic claim that every French terry fabric uses the same yarn arrangement.
What Does 420 GSM Mean in French Terry?
In French terry, 420 GSM refers to the target finished weight of the complete fabric, not the weight of a single jersey layer with loops added afterward.
The face and reverse are part of one knitted construction. A 420 GSM loopback French terry should therefore be understood as one 420 GSM fabric with a jersey-knit face and an unbrushed loopback reverse.
Fabric weight influences hand feel, drape, and perceived substance, but it does not by itself determine quality, warmth, durability, or fit. Fibre, yarn, knit structure, finishing, and garment construction all remain part of the complete material decision.
For a clear definition of GSM, see What Does 420 GSM Mean in a T-Shirt?. For why weight alone is not a quality measure, see Why Fabric Weight Alone Doesn’t Define Quality.
Unbrushed Loopback vs. Brushed Fleece
Feature | Unbrushed Loopback | Brushed Fleece |
Reverse | Original loop structure remains visible | Fibers are raised into a soft pile |
Surface | Defined, looped interior | Fuzzy, brushed interior |
Finishing | No intentional brushing or raising | Mechanical brushing or raising |
Hand feel | More direct and textured | Softer and more fleece-like |
Material character | Retains the original loopback surface | Changes the interior surface through finishing |
Unbrushed loopback keeps the original looped reverse.
Brushed fleece is created by mechanically raising that reverse into a soft pile. They produce different interior hand feels and different wearing experiences. Neither is automatically superior; they are different material decisions.
REALLY COOL®’s Signature Loopback platform is developed as unbrushed. The reverse is not brushed into fleece.
French Terry vs. Single Jersey
Feature | Single jersey | French terry / loopback |
Face | Knitted jersey surface | Clean jersey-knit face |
Reverse | Jersey reverse | Unbrushed loopback |
Structure | Single-knit construction | Knitted structure with loops on the reverse |
Typical use | T-shirts, long sleeves, Henleys | Sweatshirts, hoodies, sweatpants, shorts |
Visual character | More direct, compact jersey surface | Face-and-reverse contrast; visible loop structure inside |
Common confusion | Often assumed to be all knitwear | Often confused with fleece |
Single jersey and French terry can both be developed at similar finished weights, including 420 GSM.
The difference is structural, not simply a matter of “heavier” or “lighter.” For a broader explanation of jersey as a fabric family, see What Is Jersey Fabric?. For how single jersey differs from other knit structures, see Single Jersey vs. Interlock: What’s the Difference?.
How French Terry Is Used Across Different Garments
French terry is commonly used across different types of casual and everyday apparel, including:
Crewneck sweatshirts
Raglan sweatshirts
Pullover hoodies
Full-zip hoodies
Sweatpants (straight-leg and wide-leg)
Sweat shorts
For each garment, the material is combined with a specific pattern, construction, and finishing approach. Necklines, hoods, cuffs, hems, pockets, waistbands, and leg proportions all influence how the same fabric foundation becomes a different finished product.
The material defines one part of the design. Garment engineering determines how it is developed for its intended use.
REALLY COOL® 420 GSM Signature Loopback
REALLY COOL®’s 420 GSM Signature Loopback is developed around organic cotton 3-end unbrushed French terry.
The platform pairs a clean jersey-knit face with an unbrushed loopback reverse, forming the material basis for sweatshirts, hoodies, sweatpants, and sweat shorts.
Within this platform, BX Armor is developed with a clean, non-peached face, while MX Signature uses an approved Triple-Carbon-Peach face finish. The TCP treatment concerns the face; it does not brush or raise the loopback reverse.
Fabric specifications, weight tolerances, finishing conditions, and test results should always be confirmed through the relevant product pages and approved material documentation. Product-specific composition, measurements, and availability will be provided on the relevant product pages when published.
For how surface finishing can change the hand and appearance of cotton, see What Is Peach Finish on Cotton Fabric?.
FAQ
Is French terry the same as fleece?
No. French terry has a looped reverse. Brushed fleece is created by mechanically raising the reverse into a soft pile. Unbrushed French terry keeps its loopback structure intact.
Is loopback fabric the same as French terry?
Loopback describes the looped reverse structure commonly found in French terry. French terry is the broader fabric term; loopback specifies the interior construction.
What does 3-end French terry mean?
It refers to an approved French terry construction approach using three yarn systems or feeders in the knitting process. The exact technical configuration should be confirmed against the fabric specification.
Does 420 GSM French terry mean the fabric has two layers?
No. It means the complete French terry fabric has a target finished weight of 420 GSM. The jersey face and loopback reverse are two sides of the same knitted fabric, not bonded layers.
